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Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Vimi Joshi Speaks to M·A·C PRO

My name is Vimi Joshi and I am the Senior Makeup Artist for M·A·C in the Middle East and India. I have been doing makeup for 11 years now and never in my wildest dreams did I expect it to take me around the world and back to India and Bollywood.

I got into makeup accidentally while in medical school. Hanging out with some friends on music video sets in London I found myself watching the makeup artists; I was fascinated to see how they used color and texture to transform people. It was really inspirational. Virtually overnight, I knew that I had found my calling in life.

I gave up medical school and joined cosmetology school and for the first time was really excited about studying. Straight after graduating I went to work at MTV Europe for a few years; I also worked on numerous fashion shows, TV shows, music videos and did loads of editorials. It was a great experience and I got to work with some of the best talent in the industry.

I was then offered a job in Kuwait to work with the Royal Family and to open up a makeup concept store. I was meant to come out to the Middle East for three months...but eight years later I am still here and absolutely love it. I soon realized that "natural" makeup in the Middle East is heavy foundation, with dark, smoky, heavily lined eyes.

I certainly grew professionally and started doing theatrical "natural" makeup every day. I became the regional training manager for the Middle East for M·A·C and was soon offered a position in Dubai as the M·A·C Senior Makeup Artist for the Middle East and India.

I jumped at the chance. Growing up in England we watched Bollywood movies and now I had the chance to work in that glamorous industry. I have spent most of 2005 in India and it has been fascinating. There is a lot of emphasis on the eyes, which are heavily lined with lots of lashes and of course the lips are always beautifully defined. It is a very glamorous look which has inspired women all over the world. It is quite interesting to see that Arabian makeup is now very influential in terms of the runway. The cat's-eye "wing" look that is the trademark of Arabian women is now all over the fashion editorials and campaigns.

One of the biggest challenges we face as makeup artists here in the Middle East and India is the intense heat and humidity during summer months. Outdoor shooting for a Bollywood movie can be very difficult, as the makeup tends to melt very quickly. Bollywood actresses do have to wear a lot of makeup because film picks up every flaw. They traditionally apply foundation very heavily, but I have learned to minimize the foundation use, by prepping and priming the skin. I have discovered some incredible M·A·C products and techniques that will keep your makeup on much longer during these hot summer months.

The first step and most essential step to ensuring that your makeup stays on longer is the preparation of your skin before you apply any makeup at all. Make sure that your skin is thoroughly clean - Green Gel Cleanser is great for this. Before you apply any moisturizer use Fix + all over the face. Then massage any of our M·A·C moisturizers into your skin. If you have oily skin, then Oil Control Lotion is great as it keeps the skin oil-free for longer. Apply Fix + again to really hydrate the skin. This preparation is key as it really will hold your foundation in place.

To maintain your foundation during warmer climates, you need to ensure that you have some powder in your base. Powders absorb oils and will also make your skin matte. Studio Fix is great for oilier skin because it is a powder plus foundation. Studio Tech is a creamy compact that is great for all skins as it contains powder, water and emollient that will hydrate the skin and also keep it matte. Select SPF 15 Foundation is a liquid foundation for those who prefer liquid textures and can be used on all skin types. I would advise that you lightly powder your face after the foundation. Then, if you need to do some touch-ups during the day, Blot Powder and Blot Film are great to use as they contain no talc and will leave no residue on your face. You should also protect your skin with an SPF factor.

With that said, makeup for film actresses in Bollywood requires a very different technique so that the skin appears natural and flawless under the lights and the eye of the camera. Makeup for film is completely the opposite than makeup for fashion. To prevent the makeup from cracking under the intense heat of the lighting in the studio, it's important to use a layering technique. To prep the skin, do not use any moisturizer at all, wash the face with ice water. Apply Full Coverage Foundation all over the face, paying special attention to the area under the eyes. A yellow undertone or concealer is advisable under the eye area. Blend this into the skin to make it look as flawless as possible. Then scrape some Studio Fix onto a plate and mix it with water, preferably with ice water creating a "wash". Brush the wash all over the face using the 190 Foundation Brush, and again pay extra attention the under eye area. Using a sponge, absorb the excess water. This will then "set" your foundation for the day. It's amazing how it will not move! You will have to re-do the area under eye after every few hours using the same techniques. But, when you view the makeup through the eye of the camera, the actress will appear as if she's wearing no makeup at all - giving the illusion of perfect, even-toned skin.

There are some incredible products for eyes that have great staying power: Fluidlines and Paints are excellent to use as eye shadow. They start off as a cream and will set to powder. I have used them during the rainy season in India and on outdoor shoots and they did not move. We also have a great range of colors. Splashproof Lash Mascara and our Powerpoint Eye Pencils, which are waterproof as well, stand the test of time. In Bollywood movies, there are lots of scenes under waterfalls and lots of crying as well. Obviously, waterproof makeup is vital! This will stop the foundation from melting and streaking. Reapplying the foundation for a Bollywood film can take up to an hour.

M·A·C has some of the most amazing products for lips when it comes to warmer climates. Pro Longwear Lipcolour is highly pigmented and will stay on forever without drying out your lips, if used correctly. You need to make sure that you do not use a lip liner under the product and once you apply it you have to let it set for two minutes before you can add the gloss. Then line the outside of your lips. It works so well. You can also use our Matte Lipsticks, which are great, too.

Working in both fashion and films has been a great experience for me. I've learned so many vital techniques for makeup application and continue to use them everyday in my work. Every new job teaches me something new. Never stop learning!

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