Make-up Trend: The Perfect Smoky Eye

On the latest issue of Filmfare, Vidya Balan made a soft and sultry statement with pitch-perfect smoky eyes. Deep gray shadow is kept neat and below the crease; black liner is smudged just so around the top and bottom lashlines. Perfection.

Rec: Stila Smoky Eye Talking Palette

Make-up Trend: Earthy Lipstick

If you're afraid a full-on nude lip will wash you out, consider a terracotta hue like Vidya Balan sported on the cover of Cineblitz this month. The earthy shade is neutral enough to work with nearly any skin tone, the peachy tint warms up the entire face without feeling clownish.

Rec: M.A.C Charismatic Lipstick

Make-up Trend: Old-School Hollywood Makeup

Looking like a Hollywood-esque diva Vidya Balan graced this month's cover of Andpersand, to recreate her look apply black liquid eyeliner to your upper lids, starting in the inner corners and drawing out. Thicken the line toward the outer edges. Then, using a small pointed brush, dab a tiny amount of champagne-gold powder shadow under the inner third of the eye. Apply 3-4 coats of mascara on your top lashes only. Rim your water line with a white eye pencil and finish the look off with a rose tinted stain stain.

Rec: Tarte Natural Lip Stain with LipSurgence Technology in Enchanted

Make-up Trend: Matte Pink Lips

On the latest issue of Verve, Vidya Balan looks ever so gorgeous in all white and matte pink lips. To give the shade a soft romantic touch, choose a matte formulation and apply sparingly with a soft lip brush. When your lips are matte, keep your skin dewy—it keeps the whole look youthful looking.

Rec: Illamasqua Lipstick in Wanton

Make-up Trend: Thick Black Lashes

You don't need a prescription for lashes as lush as Vidya's were at Lion's Gold Awards. Lots of over-the-counter brands are offering safe nighttime lash enhancement products that actually work. When looking at what's in it, look for formulations with natural extracts, which tend to be more gentle, and be sure to follow the directions exactly. And of course, if you're not quite ready to experiment, a volume-boosting mascara with conditioning ingredients will do the trick, too.

Rec: FNS Nutrilash Lash and Brow Enhancer

Make-up Trend: Pink Nailpolish with A Twist

At the Elle Carnival for Breast Cancer Awareness Vidya Balan shows us a pretty twist on regular pink nail polish. All the manicurists were lined up to give people Breast Cancer Awareness Pink Nail polish with tiny little white ribbons painted on the fourth nail. To get the same kind of nails, apply two coats of a dusty rose polish, and on the third use a nail art pen and draw a white ribbon. For the last step, don't forget to seal it all in with a top coat. A fun and pretty manicure, with a great cause!

Rec: Sally Hansen Nail Art Pen in White Creme (01)

Make-up Trend: Brown-Pink Lips

Vidya Balan sported a brownish-pinkish lipcolor in the pages of the latest issue of Good Housekeeping. Bright lip shades are pretty hot these days, but it's nice to remember that a pinky color with slight chestnut undertones is a flattering (and more subdued) option. The chestnut tones brings out the gold in her eyes as well.

Rec: Bobbi Brown Brownie Pink Lip Color

M.A.C Senior Artist Vimi Joshi: Behind The Scenes

Lipstick and kajal are so yesterday. Makeup's now an art form that can transform you. It's governed by trends and let's admit it, Bollywood would not be half as glamorous if it were not for the magic of makeup. M.A.C Senior Artist Vimi Joshi, gives us the lowdown on the makeup secrets of her famous clientele, what it's like behind the scenes at a fashion show and what are the latest trends to adopt.

On the sets
The look in Bollywood is classic. Actors work under harsh lights and the camera misses nothing, so the makeup has to be flawless and needs touching up and refreshing often. However, most actors want to look like themselves onscreen, preferring smoky eyes and nude lips.

Backstage at a fashion show
To the untrained eye, the buzz around most fashion shows seems similar gorgeous models slip into fabulous dresses while the glitterati take their seats in the front row. But Vimi says that each fashion capital has its own unique vibe. "It really depends on which city you are in. New York is arty and there are many celebrities. London is edgier. Milan is sexy and Paris is sophisticated."

If you have been backstage at a fashion show, you will see makeup artists frantically working on models with clockwork precision. This is courtesy many trials and rehearsals. It's the entire team, comprising the designer, hairdresser, stylist and the makeup artist who work on the look. However, Vimi says that it's finally the designer's vision. She says, "There is so much creativity. Once we might be doing a geisha, the next time a Marilyn Monroe, then an Audrey Hepburn."

But it isn't all peachy when you have tired models and a stressed-out designer going hysterical. "You just breathe and pray and keep your cool. But if no one yelled, it would not be Fashion Week." she says. What also helps is that Vimi does a two-minute aromatherapy facial massage on all the models to calm them, after which they "melt in my hands".

Looks you can try out
The 80s are back with a vengeance. But you don't have to copy their makeup brush stroke for brush stroke. Be tactful and employ what is now being called Punk Couture. Vimi says, "This look is inspired by punk rockers, but is more edgy, glamorous and sophisticated. It's more punk perfection. Couture means tailor-made. So take this look and adapt it to your face." This look is all about strong eyes that scream attitude. Smudge the kajal or eye shadow to get that sultry smoky look.

To replicate the next trend, turn to the Hollywood red carpet. All the beauties strutting their stuff have perfect, almost glowing skin. For this, you need perfectly hydrated skin so use a water-based moisturiser. Pick a foundation closest to your skin tone and finish off with a light pink blush on for that sweet-girl blush and a light layer of lip-gloss. Jennifer Lopez is a great reference, as her makeup is minimal to highlight her glowing skin.

For the festive season
Festivities have begun. Navratri, Diwali and the wedding season will soon be around the corner. With every look that you change, you must make sure your makeup changes accordingly. Vimi suggests you celebrate your Indianness. "I travel around the world and Europeans are spending thousands on buying products for an ideal skin tone. Look for inspiration in the Indian textures and colors." For the festive season, mix matte and shimmer so you don't overdo either. You could have a shimmer eye shadow with a matte finish one applied into the crease of the eyelid, hence pushing forth the shimmered eyelid. Use colors from your outfit in your makeup as well.

Starry eyes: Vimi on her famous clientele

Freida Pinto: Vimi says, "I love her. I have worked with her a couple of times and she is one of the nicest, most down-to-earth people I've met. We first worked together on a photo shoot and then for the Toronto and Dubai film festivals (above). We started off with the nude look, but then got creative. She is open to new looks and ideas."

Bipasha Basu: "We did the Harper's Bazaar shoot with her in London and she was incredible. First we did a nude-gold look and then she said, 'Come on, let's get creative.' So we looked at the clothes and settled on this forest-murky-green look. Bipasha is constantly pushing the creative boundaries."

Dita Von Teese: "With her, you know you are going to be doing the pale skin and red lips; the 1950s look. But the key is that you retain her image."

Amitabh Bachchan: "He is such a gentleman. I met him backstage at an awards function. He literally needed just a touch-up."

Helen: "I love her. She is a beauty icon for India. She does her makeup herself. Helen is a beautiful woman inside out. Her makeup is more subdued and natural now."

Vidya Balan: "I see her for who she is. She is one of the most spiritually grounded women I have met. I love working with her. We actually did a green and blue look for her for a newspaper and she loved it."

Katrina Kaif: "Stunning is the only word I can use for her. How can you improve perfection? Whenever I have worked with her, it was always a very natural look."

Make-up Trend:Bold, Symmetrical Brows

It's ok to go bold with your arches as long as they look neat and tidy like Vidya Balan's. To avoid the pain of the pluck, smooth a skin-numbing cream over your entire brow and the surrounding area. Remove the cream after five minutes with a hot, damp compress—this will help the hairs slide easily and painlessly out of their follicle. Now pluck away!

Rec: Tweezerman Slant Tweezer

Vidya Balan on Her Beauty Rituals

When it comes to looks, I swing between minimalist and boho.

CLEAN-UP

Instead of chemical soaps, I use Khadi Herbal Face and Body Wash in Rose & Lemon everyday. If I have a ton of make-up after a shoot, I'll use M.A.C. Wipes to take it off.

GOLDEN RULES

I have to get a pedicure at least once a week... I also love getting head massages; they relax me completely. I use ayurvedic oil from Dr Shempi in Mumbai, created especially for me.

DIET FIX

I eat lots of fresh fruit, veggies and salads and drink fresh coconut water everyday. I also like nuts: groundnuts, walnuts and almonds

Vimi Joshi Talks DIFF and S/S 09 Make-up Trends

When people ask Vimi Joshi where she lives, she quickly responds with, "Emirates Airlines, seat 7A." As senior make-up artist, India and Middle East, for M.A.C Cosmetics, spending most of her life airborne is just one of the perks of an already fascinating job.

However, Vimi will be in her hometown of Dubai this week, working her magic on the stars at the 5th Dubai International Film festival (DIFF). In previous years, Vimi has worked on Richard Gere, Oliver Stone and Albert Brookes. (Yes, gentlemen also wear make-up, Vimi informs us, but it's not so much mascara as mattifying powder to take off the sheen when they are under the lights.)

"This year, among the stars who have confirmed their appointments are Sonam Kapoor and her sister Rhea. Sonam is a dear friend, always open to experimentation, and possibly the star I have made up the most. I also worked with the cast of Slumdog Millionaire at the Toronto Film Festival and I'm excited to meet them again at DIFF," says Vimi, settling down in a soundproof M.A.C green room tucked away in the brand's store in Mercato Mall.

"What's so great about DIFF is that you can go over the top with make-up. One can be creative, because the stars want more: You can bring out the crystal, the glitter, the lashes, and its full-on glamour — especially with the Indian and Middle Eastern celebrities," she exclaims.

Among Arab film stars, Vimi has worked with the likes of Yousra and Leila Aloui. Hollywood stars, though, prefer to keep it relatively natural and usually opt for a little bronzer and/or nude make-up. "They want to look like themselves," Vimi explains.

M.A.C has two services lined up for the stars, invitees and guests at the festival: a make-up suite at the Al-Qasr Hotel and on-call appointments for A-listers, who prefer a personalized session in the privacy of their suite. When on call for en-suite appointments, a make-up artist never knows who is going to ring them up or just drop by. On other occasions, an artist could spend most of a day making sure a single celebrity looks perfect for a series of media engagements. During DIFF, on-air talent and guests can get their make-up touched-up at a dedicated lounge, located in the media centre at the Madinat Jumeirah.

Frequent flyer

Joshi also travels to the international fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris. For a month each year, she works with some of the top make-up artists in the world, the likes of Charlotte Tilbury, Val Garland, and Tom Pecheux, "keying" in the look on the most famous runways in the world. "I lay out the products for make-up artists to use. Thus we are able to test products backstage for a month during the fashion weeks. These are followed by recap meetings, where we give enormous amounts of feedback. M.A.C listens to us, and then a collection is launched."

Despite Vimi's cover-girl looks, she prefers being behind the scenes. "Being a celebrity is not an easy job, with the world watching your every move. To bring that amount of glamour, attention to detail and perfection, each and every day — hat's off to them!" Of her looks, she confesses she needs an hour to get ready every day. "Being part of the beauty industry, it's only natural that you take care of yourself. And when you do something so regularly, it is a habit. I need that hour-long ritual of getting ready."

Along with another senior M.A.C make-up artist, Mickey Contractor, Joshi has spent the last year creating four foundation and concealer shades (NC41, 42.5, 44.5 and 46) specifically for Indian and Middle Eastern skin tones. "The most common make-up mistake I see is women going for a foundation lighter than their skin tone," Vimi says. Especially now with the trend for organic, earthy and natural tones, a look based on lighter foundation can appear dated.

"Make-up is extremely personal and you need to celebrate your own individuality. Through the power of make-up, you can recreate yourself every day. If you want to try something, go ahead and do it — it's only make-up, it can be washed off! I would urge women to have fun with it."

Born in Uganda, Vimi grew up in a traditional Indian family that immigrated to England in 1972. "For my parents, my career options were limited to doctor, lawyer, accountant or marriage. I started working in the medical industry and soon enough realized my heart and soul were not in it." In her early 20s, she moved to London and bumped into a group of friends who were part of the music industry. On weekends, she hung around the sets of pop music videos, as a background dancer.

"I was fascinated with the make-up artists who came in on the sets. Through the power of some products and a brush, they were able to transform people. Not only was there a physical transformation, but also a radical personality shift that happened before my eyes," Vimi recalls.
When she told her family that she wanted to be a make-up artist, her mother gave her one year to prove herself.

Vimi built a successful career in that year, working on celebrities and pop stars. Invited by Shaikh Majid of the Kuwaiti ruling family to advise on a newly opened chain of make-up stores, she then moved to the Middle East. "It was supposed to be for just three months. Now, 12 years later, I am still here!" she laughs.

Seventh Heaven

Vimi says she felt like a child in a candy store when she saw what Arab women liked. "It was all ‘more is more,' with lots of color and texture. I was in seventh heaven!" She moved to Dubai in her current role, finally getting to see her country of origin on a shoot for M.A.C.

So what has she learned in the 13 years of practicing her craft? "When I started out, I used to approach make-up with the feeling, ‘I have to show you how much I can do!' I think I have learned to respect everyone's needs," Vimi muses.

"After all, I am there to inspire and make you feel beautiful, and your perception of beauty may differ from mine. Sometimes just a little mascara is enough for someone to feel like a goddess. Along the way, I have learned to listen, to respect people's needs and their limitations."

Vimi Joshi would love to M.A.C-over…

• Amy Winehouse: I love her look. She's really brought back eyeliner with a vengeance, becoming a bit of a beauty icon. While working backstage with Mickey at the Delhi Fashion Week, we had so many designers requesting the Amy Winehouse eyeliner. More power to her!
  
  
• Rakhi Sawant: I think she is open to experimenting with her look as well and is not afraid to be who she is. I love her no-holds barred attitude and the fact that she celebrates who she is. With her, I would go full out on the glamour — with sparkles and lashes.
  
  
• Aishwarya Rai: To me, she is the most beautiful woman in the world. It's my dream to work with her someday. I'd keep her look really classic – beautiful skin, glossy lips and make-up based around her beautiful eyes just shining through.
  
  
• Samantha Ronson: She's a bit androgynous. With her, I'd keep the make-up really natural and minimal – groomed brows, a bit of mascara and gloss, that's it.
  

Famous faces Vimi Joshi has worked on:

Richard Gere, Kurt Russell, Oliver Stone, Albert Brooks, Trudie Styler, Steven Tyler, Dita Von Teese, Rachel Hunter, Amitabh Bachchan, Gurinder Chaddha, Helen, Asha Bhosle, Vidya Balan, Bipasha Basu, Mira Nair, Deepa Mehta

The look 'du jour'

The biggest trend we are about to see in the coming months is a whole lot of nothing. It would seem there is no make-up on, just beautiful skin — the kind that looks straight out of the pages of a fashion magazine," says Vimi.

"It's achieved using techniques that contour and highlight the skin. People are going to pay more attention to hydrating, priming, contouring and sculpting. Beautiful skin is the best canvas; you don't need more products after that."

Make-up Trend: Bright, Shimmery Smoky Eyes

We're usually cautioned that less is more when it comes to bright. But Vidya Balan ruled the Filmfare's pages in royal blue smoky eyes.

With a bright hue, go for subtle smokey to make your eyes look brighter and more awake. Concentrate the color along the upper and lower lashlines and draw the shadow up slightly above the crease and out to the corner.

Rec: Victoria's Secret Silky Eyeshadow in Midnight Blue

Vimi on Faces being her Canvas

From the looks of it, had she tried she could have given the models a run for their money. Now she helps them get on the runway. Senior M.A.C make-up artist, Vimi Joshi would rather prefer dolling the models up than movie stars.
“Behind the scenes, is where the action takes place. Dressing up models is more fun because on the runway, you can be creative and more experimental. But when you are styling for movies, it is very character-oriented,” she asserted.
True, but that doesn’t hold her back to dress up movie stars. She has done the make-up for various Bollywood stars including the likes Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Bipasha Basu, Katrina Kaif, Urmila, Mandira Bedi, Amisha Patel and Vidya Balan.
“Unlike, the grapevine, stars are one of the best people to work with. Most of them, come and hug me after the make-up is over, I think that is a sign of appreciation,” Vimi said.
But if there’s something she rues, is the lack of courage in actors to experiment with make-up.
“I hope that Indian actors could get a little more experimental because, they are the trend-setters of the country. Deepika Padukone’s eye make-up was heavily adopted by people. I had a lot of people who came to me and asked me for the Om Shanti Om eye-liner. The same case followed with Bipasha Basu’s extended eye-liner in Race,” Vimi informed.
Vimi adds that Indians should experiment with colors such as gray, purple, blue and greens.

“I would say that the top make-up artists in India always keep up with the international beauty trends. I had just returned from New York and the Milan fashion weeks. So I closely followed the international trends and adapted them to the Indian skin-tone while working for the Delhi Fashion Week,” the make-up artist said.

Make-up Trend: Ethereal Eyes

For the look of this month's FHM Magazine that features Vidya Balan. Makeup artist Vidyadar wanted to make her eyes jump out and keep the rest of the face fresh, soft and glowy.

Vidyadar used icy pink eye shadow, plum eye liner, lots of mascara and cream blush to create this ethereal look. The lips were left bare.

Rec: M.A.C Sunset B Eye Shadow, M.A.C Eye Kohl in Prunella, M.A.C Plush Lash Mascara, M.A.C Blushcreme in Lilicent

Vogue India August 2008: Ticket to Bollywood

Ethereal Ideal

THINK: Aishwarya Rai in Devdas and Vidya Balan in Parineeta.

INSIDER TIP: "The secret for consistently flawless skin is locking in your foundation. Pat translucent powder over your finished look so that it stays on longer." says make-up artist Vipul Bhagat. He also adds, "Sit in a cool area with proper ventilation."

PRODUCTS FEATURED (clockwise from the top): Inglot Body Glitter Sparkler, Biotique Almond Eyes Kajal, L'Oreal Color Me Naturals in Brunette, Yves Saint Laurent Perfect Touch Radiant Brush Foundation in Sand, Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Color in Chic, Lancôme Hypnôse Onyx Custom Volume Mascara in Deep Black, O.P.I Nail Lacquer in Royal Rajah Ruby, Kryolan Translucent Powder

Make-up Trend: Volumized Gorgeous Lips

Does it really hurt to be beautiful? Not if you take a tip from Vidya Balan, who maximized the fullness of her pout, minus the sting of lip plumper (that works by irritating lip skin with hot pepper extracts).

Vidya contoured her lips the same way you'd contour your cheeks. Line lips with a fine-point pencil a shade darker than your lips' natural color. Fill in the corners of your upper and lower lips, which makes them recede into the background to create dimension. Then apply a generous coat of shiny lip gloss one shade lighter than your natural lip color on the center of your lips, which attracts light and accentuates the fullness and "kissability" of your pucker.

Rec: Estee Lauder Artist's Lip Pencil

Make-up Trend: Colored Mascara (Blue)

Vibrant mascara is a nice way to add a pop of color to your face.

To adapt this look for daytime, pair blue lashes with a soft shadow. For evening, line eyes with a bright blue pencil to intensify the hue of your lashes.

Rec: Bourjois Volume Clubbing Mascara

Make-up Trend: Raccoon Eyes

Embrace your animal instincts, like Vidya Balan, by rimming the circumference of your eyes with dramatic smoky shadow. Line both eyes with black kohl liner, then brush matte charcoal or brown shadow around eyes and up into the crease of lids.

Raccoon eyes should look tame, not rabid: Dust a generous amount of loose powder under your eyes before starting. It will catch flakes and dripping powder. Sweep it away with a tissue when finished.

Rec: MAC Cosmetics Royal Assets Smoky Eye Palette

Mickey Contractor Talks Make-Up

Mickey Contractor, the make up man to stars including the lovely Aishwarya Rai, sets about busting some long cherished make up myths.

"What looks best on a woman is always in," he said. "Trends will come and go. Like for instance the bright red/pink lips and cat eye liner of the Seventies is back with a bang. There are three or four trends, which keep rotating. You have the minimalist, the liner-based look and the color centric look. These are shuffled back and forth. You need to pick up what you like and what suits you. Yellow is very hot now."

From here

....to here

Mickey, who has worked in movies from Aur Pyaar Ho Gaya to Salaam E Ishq says: "Bollywood has the tendency to go overboard. That is because we wear embellished clothes, and culturally we take great care of our hair. In the process the face tends to get ignored. We need to highlight the face with make up. You must also remember that it is for the big screen and one needs to accentuate features or they will not be seen."

Preity Zinta

Mickey feels one should not be overawed by make up. "Makeup need not be the whole nine yards. It could be just a bindi and kohl."

Mickey says: "Fluidlines come in a great range of colors, be adventurous."

While kohl qualifies as makeup, Mickey says people are getting more adventurous about color. "I tell them instead of M.A.C Fluidline in Blacktrack, why not try M.A.C Fluidline in Blue Peep? And believe me it is these little things that gives a whole new look."

The makeup artist, who counts screen siren Helen as his inspiration says: "Bollywood is huge reference point. I have brides coming up to me saying they want to look like Kajol or Rani. It helps me as I know what they have in mind."

Abhishek Bachchan and Aishwarya Rai's Wedding

And talking of brides, what did he do for Ash on her wedding day? "Ash is a personal friend and I dressed her as a friend."

While Ash is a personal friend, Mickey says he has no favorite celebrity clientèle. "I have enjoyed working with everyone. It is very difficult to work in close proximity with someone you do not like."

"The relationship between makeup artist and star is a very intimate one. Bonds build over the years. Imagine, you are thrown together for fifty days on an outdoor, it is the closest one gets to having a confidant, a friend. It is a two-way thing. Even I let off steam."

Mickey's brushes and Fluidline are a staple in his train case

Ask Mickey what he cannot step out without and he says: "My set of M.A.C Brushes. I do not allow anyone to touch them. The one product that is always in my train case is M.A.C Fluidline. It works wonders."

Mickey obviously loves working in Bollywood. "I was fated to be here. I do share my opinion with the directors. With Karan Johar I can tell him what I feel about whether a scene would work or not."

Sushmita Sen

Mickey works according to the personality of the client. "A little bit of groundwork always helps. For someone like Sushmita Sen, I know she has this huge diva personality and I work with that."

Mickey has been associated with M.A.C for the past two years and will work on "customizing foreign trends to suit our needs. I am also involved in master classes where we share knowledge and information."

All fans of fluffy, furry creatures can take heart when Mickey, who loves animals and has a Labrador and parakeet says: "M.A.C products are not tested on animals."

Mickey, whose upcoming projects include Goldie Behl's Drona and Harry Baweja's Love Story 2050, has one bit of advice to give out: "Always do what suits you."

Make-up Trend: Cat Eyes

Stars can't get enough of this feline trend sported by Vidya Balan. Dab black liquid liner on a tissue to prevent goopy application; then dot formula into (not above) top lash roots from the inner corner to above the pupil, and connect the dots. While slanting the line slightly upwards, extend it 1/4-inch beyond the outer corner.

Don't have a steady hand? Rest your elbow on a counter while you draw the line.

Rec: MAC Liquid Eye Liner in Boot Black